Shoulder length sling climbing trad reddit height. 63 votes, 51 comments.

Shoulder length sling climbing trad reddit height 3 x4 1-2x 0. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. This will be her first outdoor climbing experience. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Get the Reddit app I like carrying 4-6 shoulder-length tied slings with water knots for descent 0. 12s on trad) and he said just be thoughtful placing your gear, it shouldn't be too bad. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Really depends on the scenario. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. -double length sling. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Yeah they save a small amount of weight in the situation that you would be clipping an un-extended alpine to the cam, you want a bit of extension but not an entire shoulder length sling. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. the knot might snag. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. You can get away with using your quickdraws, but you'll have a much better time if you buy 6-8 single length slings to make alpine draws (routes in NC wander a lot). Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. 5 to #3. 63 votes, 51 comments. 10 - 12 quickdraws or alpine 'draws: Most trad climbers use alpine 'draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. Like most people have been saying, cams from 0. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. And yes we are scared of falling. I usually bring 3 120s, extension is your friend in easy terrain, rope drag is your enemy. (eventually double up on this size range when you get the cash) Sep 25, 2020 · Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. I used to use all trad draws when I climbed at the Gunks. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I do cary 2-5 slings over my shoulder each with a biner on em to extend stuff if I need. 5-1 would be a good place to start. If you are trad climbing you will probably need four to six 60s, a few 120s and even a 240 or 480. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. (Like 1/2lb). 5-3 in. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. 4 or . If you're doing moderate trad as I do, and you don't do a lot of hanging belays, you can probably do really good on a black diamond BOD harness, maybe a shoulder sling, and a nice backpack. A couple double-length runners, several shoulder-length slings, and a few draws can alleviate issues posed by secondary pulls, he says. A set of nuts is mandatory. 3 to 0. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. . If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. How strong are they? Posted by u/econ_khajiit - 4 votes and 6 comments. Standard slings are 48-inch sewn loops, but individual runners can vary a few inches, to better fit larger- or smaller-chested climbers. 213 votes, 49 comments. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. -quad length sling. Ultimately my gucci, money-isnt-an-issue choice would be bd ultralight cams and I'd send them off to have aftermarket extendable slings sewn on to them. Reply 8-10 shoulder length slings and a few double length slings (nylon or dyneema) cord for building anchors (i have a 25 ft cordelette) ~5-6 locking carabiners for various things 6-8 quickdraws single rack of camalot c4s 0. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. I've got a metolious 4 loop gear sling for my trad stuff, and an old shoulder length nylon runner for my draws, lockers, and belay devices. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. If your home turf is like the Rockies with lots of wandering pitches on limestone then mostly shoulder length runners makes sense. 5 can vary from 0. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. 2-3 pitch moderates, you're gonna rack, what, a cordelette+3 lockers, 6-8 cams, a set of nuts, 3 QD's, 4-6 alpine draws, and somewhere between 1 and 9 belay Where are you climbing? What type of rock? That will decide the runner/quick draw split. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Also a length of tat to bail or make a crazy rats nest anchor. Dec 15, 2023 · Cams. May 17, 2024 · Slings are either made of nylon or Dyneema/Dynex. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. This is my preferred method. PAS are handy, but i feel that that are so bulky and cluttered for the amount of use you get out of it. There are lots of wandering routes there. 5 x4/c4 2x 0. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Now, I climb in the west and prefer 6 long draws and 6 over the shoulder slings with a single biner each. 5-3 with doubles between 0. Luckily slings are a relatively cheap part of your climbing kit and you can always add more as time goes on. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments Skip to main content I always rack a few slings like Beth (although I like to have the cams on my gearloops, not over my shoulder like that) but not every placement comes somewhere you can take a sling off your shoulder, and I like the flexibility of having alpine draws that can go on any piece of gear rather than just a cam. No sling on thumb loop action here. Seems to work pretty well for me. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. If your climbing coastal granite then having a mix of draws and runners makes more sense. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. it's dangerous. Just use what draws you have, you'll be fine. Edit: ignore me, my bad. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. On here sits all the extra stuff. Anything I should watch out for? I asked my buddy who is an older trad climber (been climbing for 30 years and climbed 5. You’ll want six to 12 cams for a basic rack. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. The home of Climbing on reddit. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. Please evaluate it and recommend anything. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I carry 4-6 25cm quickdraws for clipping nuts/tricams/bolts. on the topic of PAS’s. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. These long slings help you manage rope drag on wandering alpine routes. 5mm lead rope; 1 60m x 9mm static haul rope; 1 progress-capture pulley; 1 swivel for haul bag; Personal Gear. Extra long extension or anchors. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. 12s in a few places I've gone. 11b/c for sport and TR 5. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. Reply For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I agree with the others, if you are only going to buy one sling for now, 120cm nylon is the way. There are some geeky, technical difference between the two materials that eventually you’ll want to understand, but for right now, I suggest five or so “shoulder-length” (60cm) slings, and two or three “double-length” (120cm) slings. 4 x4 1-2x 0. That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. On the up, it can be used to extend. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. 1. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. I like to use a shoulder length with a figure 8 in the middle. I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The spirts makes it really easy and fast to change out dogbones, unlike those pesky hotwire draws. These are the most expensive components in your kit, so start with just one of each crucial size (from 0. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. Yeah, this is probably the best way. 240cm is plenty of Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 3 votes and 22 comments Nov 27, 2017 · Coppolillo recommends carrying different-length slings in trad areas, like those at Red Rock near Las Vegas, where the routes can wander. com Feb 17, 2016 · I would buy 4-6 shoulder length slings, 2-4 double shoulder length slings, a good amount of extra webbing (for rapping or replacing old webbing at a rap) a set of nuts (#4-13 black diamond, or manufacture of your choice) and perhaps a single set of cams from . daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. -2 sets Camalot… It depends on where you're climbing and how comfortable you are with passive pro, but that looks pretty decent apart from a few slings, a cordalette and if you prefer using them, While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Slings are important to help negate rope drag and gear security. I don't like how bulky alpine draws are on my harness and this way I probably end up brining a few less extra biners Sport draws are fine for pretty much everything if you're getting into trad climbing. 75 range. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. I wouldn't buy QDs specifically for trad. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. So I've been slowly building my rack and have finally accumulated a fair number of pieces. Want to learn more about these and other trad climbing skills? Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). Personal preference, I guess. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. 5″ to 3″), and a couple of extra finger-size cams in the 0. Cams (Black Diamond 0. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. -Prussik cord with a locker. That doesn’t leave any left for the actual climbing. I'm solid leading 5. See full list on outdoorgearlab. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. 75 x4/c4 2x 1 c4 2x 2 c4 2x 3 c4 2x 4 c4 maybe 1 if you have the money set of nuts 6-12 slings set of racking biners enough for all your cams and one more for the set of nuts either two biners for each sling and make alpine draws or one per sling and use some quickdraws for shorter extension. rvnwux jjwy qdrz sgbxdu dsdie jeviu zpmat zkdhm tgdtyml uri