El capitan climbing. 12 sport style liebacking, burly 5.

El capitan climbing It avoids the two 5. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals 6 days ago · From El Capitan Meadow, pick up the distinct trail that starts 300 feet west of El Capitan Bridge. Necessary gear 3. Essentially it is the Salathe wall with a few variations used (pioneered by Alex Huber) to avoid the numerous 5. Jun 3, 2018 · On the morning of June 2 at 8 a. That said, no climb to the top of El Capitan is easy. [26] In 1978, Bev Johnson was the first woman to solo El Capitan by climbing the Dihedral Wall. Yosemite’s towering granite faces, particularly those of El Capitan and Half Dome, began to draw climbers from across the country. El Capitan certainly stands out for its big wall climbing, and all of Yosemite is a big wall paradise. 12 pitches. Lynn Hill was the first person to free climb the Big Stone in 1993, via The Nose (5. , while speed climbing on the lower pitches of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan—a section called Freeblast—two highly experienced climbers, Tim Klein and Jason Wells, were involved in a fatal accident. Those who attempt the face—up to 1,000 parties each year, climber Ken Yager estimates—can swing between different routes or start halfway up the mountain via a hoist, taking the journey one segment at a time rather than heading straight up from the base. 0. 8 free climbing. Despite its fame and multiple previous attempts, the 7,573ft (2,307 m) El Capitan mountain had never been flash climbed until Jan 30, 2024 · El Capitan: A Rock Climber’s Paradise. In 1994, Lynn changed the definition of what is possible in rock climbing with her first free ascent of the most famous big wall climb in the world called The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley 4 days ago · From El Capitan Meadow, pick up the distinct trail that starts 300 feet west of El Capitan Bridge. Freerider begins toward the right side of the formation, then moves up the middle. Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost climbed the Salathe Wall with only 13 bolts and sparse use of fixed ropes, making a 6-day summit push from Aug 12, 2023 · Following a long, varied and gorgeous crack system, Freerider is one of the more popular routes on El Capitan. Nov 22, 2016 · In 1993, Lynn Hill became the first person (not just first woman) to free-climb the 2,900-foot Nose of El Capitan, perhaps the most famous rock climb in the world. 10b. The single, thin seam that runs the duration of the Headwall is unbelievable. It is also one of the steepest routes on El Capitan. El Capitan, rising over 3,000 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley, is a favorite for experienced rock climbers. The view of El Capitan is a beacon for visitors, a muse for photographers, and climbing El Capitan is one of the world’s ultimate challenges for rock climbers adventurers. Permits and regulations 4. El Capitan: 20. Ahhh El Cap, Yosemite’s fabled granite monolith, the most revered big wall in the world, and the dream-send of rock climbers everywhere. Rising 3,000 feet (914 meters) above Yosemite Valley, El Capitan is one of the most famous and challenging rock formations on Earth. El Capitan, meaning “the captain” or “the chief,” is a 3,000-foot monolithic granite rock formation that towers over Yosemite National Park in the western state of California, USA. 11+ crack climbing, a huge 5. . Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost climbed the Salathe Wall with only 13 bolts and sparse use of fixed ropes, making a 6-day summit push from The right side of El Capitan has 27 main routes to the top. The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. The 1950s and 1960s are often considered the “Golden Age” of Yosemite climbing, a period that marked the birth of modern big-wall climbing. It takes the average climber two to four days to ascend more than a dozen pitches. 13c) - Climb up and move right to join Mescalito again. It's an awe-inspiring thing that first time you go to the Valley and stand at the base of El Cap, looking up. 12 sport style liebacking, burly 5. 9 or 5. For instance, the well-known climber Alex Honnold made history by free-climbing El Capitan via the “Freerider” route without a rope or belay in June 2017. [2] El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Jun 15, 2006 · El Cap is probably the most recognized chunk of rock in the world to rock climbers. Often referred to as the "best rock climb in the world" it is obvious why this route is one of the most sought after big walls in the valley and the Feb 26, 2024 · Is El Capitan easy to climb? While this behemoth is known for some of the world’s most challenging rock climbing routes, there are more moderate routes located on the rock as well. El Capitan was first climbed in 1935 by the Underhills and Dave Williams. 12d. Freeing El Cap Requires All the Skills. May 29, 2025 · Steep, clean and outrageously exposed, the Shield Headwall may be the most spectacular place on El Capitan. 7 terrain approaching Mammoth Terraces, when the Jun 9, 2020 · The Nose on El Capitan, in the Yosemite National Park, is the most iconic big wall climb on the planet. Free Rider is currently the easiest and most popular way to say proudly "I have free climbed El Capitan". P12 (5. Rock Climbing On El Capitan Big Wall Climbing. ”—Sebastian Junger In Mark Synnott’s unique window on the ethos of climbing, his friend Alex Honnold’s astonishing free solo ascent of El Capitan’s 3,000 feet of sheer granite is the central act. When facing the wall, walk at 10 o’clock and pick up the climbers' trail that eventually leads to a point 200 feet in front of the toe of the Southeast Buttress and the start of the Nose. Yosemite Big Walls covers the 64 best big wall routes on El Capitan, Half Dome, and Washington Column most of which were personally climbed and documented by authors Chris McNamara and Chris Van Leuven. It has since seen countless ascents, although few of them free. Key points to consider before climbing El Capitan include: 1. With its imposing granite walls and breathtaking scenery, it offers a truly unique and exhilarating experience for those brave enough to take on its challenges. "It’s really like walking on the moon 11 Fun Facts on Rock Climbing El Capitan, The Granite Gatekeeper of Yosemite Valley. El Capitan Climbing. On Saturday, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds scaled its most iconic route, the Nose, in 2:19: Aug 15, 2019 · After a few beers in the Mountain Room that night, the two were set on a trajectory to climb El Capitan within a year. May 25, 2024 · Learn about the different ways to climb El Capitan, from free soloing without ropes to aid climbing with gear. ” Jul 25, 2023 · The history of speed climbing on El Capitan is a thrilling saga of human endurance and relentless pursuit. There is no trail to the summit of El Capitan. Read the exclusive story and watch the film of his daring feat. 10 offwidth, and a lot of moderate climbing in between, Free Rider will test your movement strength and skill set. 14b) - The Molar Traverse. Dec 6, 2024 · Austrian powerhouse Barbara “Babsi” Zangerl has stunned the climbing world, becoming the first person in history to successfully flash a route on El Capitan. Mar 5, 2019 · “One of the most compelling accounts of a climb and the climbing ethos that I've ever read. 10 A4) on the Southeast Face, where they followed discontinuous beak seams and crisscrossed nearby lines on 1,100 feet of new terrain. 13c) - Prepare for the Molar Traverse. Apr 1, 2025 · The Golden Age of Yosemite Climbing: The 1950s and 1960s. Towering nearly 3000' this route offers 31 pitches of superb climbing right up the middle of the wall. But success isn’t just about climbing. In 1993, Lynn Hill established the first free Ascent of The Nose (IV 5. 13c. 14, there’s one that allows climbers to ascend 500 metres to the top of the east end at only 5. When Warren Harding, George Whitmore and Wayne Merry first climbed the mighty 914m route in Jun 1, 2025 · Home > Climbing Routes > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan, Mescalito Sunday, June 1, 2025: Mescalito, El Capitan A3 5. Dec 17, 2024 · Climbing El Capitan by any of its big-wall routes is considered a lifetime achievement by many. It all began with Jim Bridwell’s groundbreaking achievement in 1975 when he completed the first-ever one-day ascent of The Nose, alongside John Long and Billy Westbay, in an impressive sub-18 hours. 13b/c) on El Capitan’s southwest face, with a few variations to avoid some of the harder pitches. While there are dozens of hard climbs up to 5. His choice of big wall climbing route on El Capitan is called Freerider, a route that was created by Alexander Huber in 1998, and which Honnold has completed several times with protection equipment. Aug 12, 2023 · Following a long, varied and gorgeous crack system, Freerider is one of the more popular routes on El Capitan. Never Never Land: El Capitan: 20. This trip report, while lacking illustrations, describes the route. Required climbing skills 2. Experienced El Capitan visitors regard the Upper Yosemite Falls Track hike as the best trip up to the summit. 14a) - Continue following Mescalito up the intermittent crack/dihedral system. Subscribe: http Feb 27, 2007 · El Capitan is home to numerous classic routes but "The Nose" is the mega classic of them all. Smoker suggests checking out your local gym’s shoe demo days to try various sizes and models of climbing shoes on the wall The El Capitan Hiking Route. P11 (5. Climb off the flake up and left to the belay at the lighter Nov 16, 2018 · That climb up El Capitan didn’t only bring innovation in gear, but author John Long says it also brought a new way of thinking about big-wall climbing. It was first climbed in 1958, and free-climbed in 1993. Its demanding nature makes reaching the summit an enormous achievement. May 29, 2025 · In fall of 2010, Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond completed their long-standing free project, The Prophet. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world. You made it!! 🎉 Standing on top of El Capitan is an unforgettable reward after such a challenging climb. 13 crux pitches first freed by Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in the mid 80's. The Nose: The Most Famous Route. Immerse yourself in the experience of free solo climbing Yosemite’s famous El Capitan alongside Alex Honnold in this breathtaking 360 video. May 19, 2025 · Summit of El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, [1] El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. SuperTopo offers the world's best big wall May 1, 2025 · Flash climbing refers to a climber successfully sending a route on their first attempt without falling, usually with knowledge of, but no prior experience of the climb. 11 slab, long sections of 5. Climbers come from across the globe to challenge themselves on the 3000 foot walls of El Capitan. On first ascents: Please think about the impacts that will be caused by your new climb- Is the approach susceptible to erosion? For climbers around the world, El Capitan climbing routes represent the pinnacle of big wall climbing. 14a), and two years later Alexander Huber free climbed a The route follows complex crack systems up the southwest face of El Capitan. Jul 29, 2023 · Even if you know little about rock climbing, you know about Yosemite Valley, El Capitan and have probably heard about the routes of El Capitan. Kristoffer Wickstrom and Brandon Adams established the Neptune (VI 5. However, don't expect to find the cracks Charlie Porter originally nailed as the rurp placements are now 1-1 1/4" scars. Williams was a local jack of all trades, owning a butcher and bake shop, delivering mail, mining, mountain goat hunting, and apparently one of the first mountain guides in the region. P13 (5. Modern big wall climbing began in the late 1950's and was developed into a fine art on its faces in the 1960's as climbers from all over the world have come to challenge its demanding routes. It ascends the most prominent line of the most esteemed wall in the most iconic climbing destination in existence. 13b) - Preparing for the big-deal traverses. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Follow the trail to a large clearing. While tackling El Capitan is a goal that requires years of training, you can have the experience of climbing in the park with the Yosemite Mountaineering School. Discover the challenges, history and stories of this iconic big wall in Yosemite National Park. The Upper Yosemite Falls Track is the most heavily trafficked trail to El Capitan, which offers a sense of security for more junior travelers. El Capitan is opposite Bridalveil Fall and is best seen from the roads in western Yosemite Valley, including Tunnel View, Bridalveil Fall area, and El Capitan Meadow. P9 (5. 7. 13a, the first-ever big wall free solo ascent at that grade), [3] a climb described in The New York Jul 21, 2023 · Climbing El Capitan tests physical strength, mental resilience, and technical climbing skills. As we, the broader climbing population, transition to an era of frequent free ascents by capable climbers, it’s time to update our style terminology to help break this cycle. They settled on The Shield, established by Charlie Porter and Gary Bocarde in 1973, and rated A3 with mandatory sections of 5. It is fairly accessible for El Cap and has experienced a huge uptick Jun 7, 2017 · The Southwest face of El Capitan, as seen from the valley floor. m. Get familiar with these El Capitan facts While free climbing El Capitan’s Golden Gate (VI 5. on June 3 Jun 7, 2021 · Taking advantage of cool, clear conditions in Yosemite in May, two teams made major ascents on El Capitan. West Buttress: El Capitan: 20. 8 Climbing Areas Rock Climbing Yosemite Jul 15, 2023 · The Nose of El Capitan is perhaps the most decorated and sought-after rock climb in the world. Now, Alex Honnold has done the unthinkable; on June 3, he completed the first-ever free solo of El Capitan, climbing the wall via Freerider (VI, 5. El Capitan, located in Yosemite National Park, is a mecca for rock climbers from all around the world. The team was simul-climbing through Pitch 9 or 10, 5. 14a/b). 13b, Huber-Huber, AAJ 2001) in 2009, I spotted a system of beautiful cracks and corners leading out the left side of the massive, heart-shaped recess in the middle El Cap’s southwest face. Oct 7, 2014 · The 1960’s saw Robbins making a quick second ascent of Harding’s Nose route on El Capitan followed by an ascent of the Salathe Wall on the Southwest face of El Capitan with two other Valley climbers. Mar 19, 2024 · The problem is, the techniques show little concern for other climbers on the same route. When Honnold topped out at 9:28 A. The first time I saw the summit, I couldn’t help myself – I literally ran the last stretch out of pure excitement. So much rock, so little time Oct 3, 2018 · Rock climber Alex Honnold became the first person to scale the 3,000-foot granite wall of El Capitan without ropes or safety gear in 2017. 2 days ago · Free Rider is a 4-pitch variation to Salathe Wall. One Jul 17, 2024 · How to Train for Climbing El Capitan Choose the Right Climbing Shoes. Her monumental ascent took four Climber Alex Honnold has been dreaming of free-soloing the 3,000 feet (900 m) rock wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a feat no one has performed. Zangerl blitzed the 3,300-foot granite monolith via Free Rider (VI 5. In operation since 1969, the Yosemite Mountaineering School has programs for all skill levels and even specialty programs, such as Girls on Granite. Dec 9, 2024 · Honnold, star of the Oscar-winning 2018 climbing film Free Solo has spent the last few weeks attempting to free climb El Capitan’s famed route The Nose, the 2,900-foot vertical climb that is Feb 16, 2022 · From El Cap Meadow, join the trail starting 100 yards west of El Capitan Bridge and follow to a large clearing, then pick up the climbers’ trail leading to a point 200 feet below the toe of the Nose. To free climb El Cap’s big-wall routes is a proud feat, undertaking difficulties of at least 5. [27] At more than 3,000 feet (900+ m) above the valley floor, it is 2. El Capitan is perhaps the most sublime feature in all of Yosemite Valley, and second only to Half Dome among Yosemite's most recognized features. Oct 15, 2024 · During the busy season, climbing rangers are available at the Ask-A-Ranger climber program at El Capitan Bridge from 12:30 pm to 4:30 pm for more in-depth big wall leave no trace and climbing technique advice, safety tips, and route condition information. A3 5. Dec 13, 2024 · 1. With California’s Yosemite Valley far beneath him, Alex Honnold free solos— which means climbing without ropes or safety gear—up a crack on the 3,000-foot southwest face of El Capitan. The route climbs the first pitch of Eagle's Way and then goes left and stays left until after the Devil's Brow. Move up and right and skirt the face for 20-30 minutes to reach the start of the route. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route Freerider at 5. Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Oct 23, 2017 · For big-wall climbers, El Capitan in Yosemite National Park is the most famous piece of rock on Earth. 5 times as tall as the Empire State Building, or more than 3 times as high as the top of the Eiffel Tower. May 24, 2025 · In 2017 Honnold free soloed the 3,300-foot (1,000-meter) Freerider route on El Capitan in what National Geographic said was perhaps “the greatest feat of pure rock climbing in the history of the sport. 13 pitches on the Salathe Headwall with some 5. In 1977, Molly Higgins and Barb Eastman climbed the Nose, to become the second party of women to climb El Capitan and the first to climb it via the Nose. El Cap has Dec 26, 2024 · What Should Visitors Know Before Climbing El Capitan? Visitors should know that climbing El Capitan requires thorough preparation, respect for safety protocols, and an understanding of the challenges involved. 13a) over a four-day ground-up push from November 19 to 22, all without falling. M. Check the Camp 4 kiosk, the permit kiosk at El Capitan Bridge, or the Mountain Shop for the current peregrine falcon closures. P10 (5. With a V7 slab boulder, pumpy 5. 13a). Zangerl was supported by her The summit of El Capitan is most frequently accessed by dropping down from the trail to Guadalupe Mountain and bushwhacking across the scrub to the saddle between the two, then ascending rippling terrain to the summit of El Capitan. First free climbed by the Huber brothers in 1998, the 3,300 ft climb essentially follows The Salathé Wall route (5. Photo: Mike Murphy; CC BY-SA 3. Famous routes like The Nose, Golden Jun 2, 2025 · From El Capitan Meadow, pick up the distinct trail that starts 300 feet west of El Capitan Bridge. Descent Jun 19, 2023 · El Capitan is one of the world’s most famous mountains, with walls that rise above the valley bottom up to 1,000 metres. Brent Barghahn and Warme on their low-impact ascent, Freerider (VI 5. iwzw saghhgfd qfjdzw gmw mrr axclggs exmoyvf nfairj eqoepq owugse