Best solo aid climbing reddit Use this to your advantage. The Fish Snake charmer! If you shoot me an email I can send you some diagrams of Feb 27, 2021 · It depends on a few things IMO. How comfortable are you with the systems, your anchor situation, lead or TR solo, over hanging route or vertical wall, ledges that could be hit, etc. It can allow you to short fix after hauling so that there is always upward progress for the team. If it is, do some basic aid climbing and then learn to haul. 2. 10 free climbing sections, and then switching to rope soloing for the crux aid climbing pitches. Even for Alex, it seems like his Alpine Climbing accomplishments in Patagonia didn't get nearly as much media exposure. Almost everyone who climbs el cap must aid at least some sections of the route. . The best way is to actually free solo trad climb like a real man Reply reply Top 1% Rank by size . If you do, it means you're doing it wrong. Rock Climbing. Posted by u/stoked_elephant - 5 votes and 31 comments 58 votes, 26 comments. Free soloing is high consequence but should be 100% controlled. just you and your hands, with a rope to catch you is you fall. Here's a pic of my setup, . It sounds like you are fairly inexperienced. e. 24 votes, 16 comments. Lets take the free Nose climbs as an example: Alpine Butterfly- This is going to be very hard to tie while free climbing but can work for an aid solo. Homemade Friction Widget- This can be anything that is going to hold the rope tight against the anchor. I can't climb 5. You’d probably see an equal mix of people free climbing and aid climbing at any quick glance of el cap. not doing it free means you may put tools in the rock and climb on that (aid climbing) free solo means you do it all yourself and no rope to catch you if you fall This makes climbing the wall ridiculously time consuming. id recommend getting free climbing means you climb all pitches without any assistance going up. From big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick’s excellent aid climbing book, “Higher Education”: “You should never find aid climbing hard. Or just clips directly into bolts (sport). I wouldn't solo lead with the gri-gri, unless you are talking about aid climbing. My first true aid lead was pitch 1 and my second aid lead was the crux pitch. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour For a while (as support) it was Senna, but immediately after reaching Mastery 6 and getting a certain skin I’ve been inflicted with what I call the “Prestige True Damage Curse”, where anytime I pick Senna, without fail, my entire team would be collectively reduced to a single brain cell to share between them. Adam Ondra (the climber in the photo and arguably the best climber of all time) spent 8. Prodigal Son would be another good one. 1. Why? If the climber tops out the route, it would be easy (unavoidable) to climb ABOVE the masterpoint. He was the fittest person I knew and was a experienced and strong climber (Solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn for example). I started the hike solo, ended with 6 other people following me off the mountain. This is important because you need consistently good weather while you’re climbing, which isn’t a guarantee in Yosemite. 90K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. There is a belayer here also. Leader arrives at belay - pulls up all the left-over lead line slack and then fixes the lead line for the 2nd to ascend and clean on. Need more info than that to make a recommendation, just go to any stats website and look at ADC champs with >51% wr and >2% pick rate, every champ that fits those 2 criteria is technically good for climbing, to give a specific recommendation I would need to know what you play atm, what you enjoy and what kind of playstyle are you looking for. if I remember correctly, his main point is that aid climbing does not further the "sport" of climbing. If it gets big then it’s just gonna create a whole new bunch of ethics/access problems when people who don’t know any better or don’t give a shit start drytooling on climbing crags 515 votes, 39 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour 37K subscribers in the RockClimbing community. Note that there are some modifications you can do on a Grigri if you plan to use it for rope solo free climbing, but you don't need this for aid climbing. Agreed. (Granted for the most part it was just a bolt ladder) Aid climbing is something you can pretty easily practice by yourself. Business, Economics, and Finance 57 votes, 42 comments. It feeds the best and is simple and safe. *Aid climbing (also depending on skill level but everything from basic aid technique, placing aid gear such as copper heads and pitons to big wall techniques, hauling, using tag lines, portal edges, rope soloing and so on) *self rescue level 1 (rescuing an injured 2nd climber. The climber places removable protection (called trad climbing) and clips the rope into that to arrest the fall. 98K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Screamers , if you're unfamiliar, are stretchy slings whose stretch activates around 2kn and reduce peak loads Posted by u/Kermitnirmit - 13 votes and 4 comments 86K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. I imagine they're excellent in the desert if you're boulder stomping 100% of the time, but I think a pair of light hiking shoes/trail runner type shoes are far more versatile (and probably cheaper too) for the other cases that you might encounter on the approach/descent. “It has been XX days since my accident, solo-aid climbing in Yosemite Valley. I can think of a few solo hikers/climbers who took a big fall and probably would have died had they not had a sliver of cell reception. The home of Climbing on reddit. You're thinking of Free Solo, which is what this guy is doing. Read up on the 10 essentials. Yes seriously. And yes In other words, free climbing would use ropes and bolts to stay safe in the case of a fall, but you can’t ascend the rope to skip a section of climbing, or stand on a bolt to rest. I'd suggest learning to trad climb and then see if el cap is something you'd like to pursue. With difficult aid climbing you are deliberately putting yourself in danger, you know you're putting yourself in danger, and you have to stand there and watch that flake you're hooking onto flex with nothing but body weight placements for the last 20 feet. Without modifying your gri-gri, I don't know of any way to get the rope to feed hands-free. 8mm static rope. That’s really the only way I know of to climb aid pitches solo. "solo") to protect you if you fall. (I have read about too many people who like the Solo Aid) So in short: Solo Aid Climbing: Gri Gri seems to be consensus Solo Free Climbing: Silent Partner seems to be popular although folks also use the modified Gri Gri. I perfer this to loops. For me, I settled on a mini trax with alpine knots every six feet on a single 9. I'm not claiming that it's not special. May 9, 2001 · Again, though- dangerous for aid climbing cause the rope will feed all too well in an upside down fall. Ok yeah, if it was A4 aid climbing that’s exactly what he was doing, free soloing as much as possible, probably free soloing up to the 5. While this is std practice for normal toproping, for solo TR I strongly suggest the masterpoint should be ABOVE the lip. 12, but I can't imagine being a free climber on moonligh 98K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. I've been exercising my Google-fu and it seems like there's a lot of different set ups for top rope soloing. Prusik is an absolute disaster for rope soloing. I would go out and basically set up a top-rope solo and just aid local trad climbs. I know its easy for us commenters to keyboard climb when we just see a snapshot of your overall climbing experience, so glad to hear you got it sorted out, and good on you for seeking feedback. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour My best friend would have described himself just as you did. Like Healyje! I copied his system. Meru (and El cap also) uses a technique called aid climbing, where removable gear is used to make progress instead of hands and feet. The most likely scenario is that both solo hikers became injured, stranded and then died in an out-of-the way location. I had a significant fall where I hit 3 ledges before my rope caught me. Short fixing typically works better without hauling, but can easily be incorporated to a hauling system. It's a type of free climbing that doesn't use ropes and is bigger than a boulder problem. A clunkier, less nimble grip than full-fledged climbing shoes. Both of these are pretty safe endeavors which you can find a host of info on how to do from books and the internet. More posts you may like The home of Climbing on reddit. For free climbing, solo on lead, you want a proper device. Going solo can kill you. Their only real purpose is so that V2 gumbies can fool their non-gym crushes into thinking they're 24/7 lifestyle climbers who often need to scale slabs at a moment's notice, just like their the crags around murrin park and the smoke bluffs probably have the highest concentration of easily accessed cliff tops and realistically have 100+ quality routes that you could rope solo. Unjerk. 99% of people who free climb use ropes. I’ve been eyeballing some solo aid in the future, I’ve come to understand the systems well but I have a very basic question. Feb 24, 2009 · This isn't a problem if you take a small or big fall free climbing but for aiding it doesn't quite work like that. The first people to climb it (Tommy and Kevin) spent 19 days on the wall. Been recovering from a few injuries and without a partner at the moment. Then try a shorter wall like the leaning tower or the column. Practice efficient climbing, hauling, changeovers, etc. That doesn't mean you can't use protection though. Honestly you’d probably see more people hauling than anything else. What is less clear is the matter of style - the details in which a climb was achieved. And yes we are scared of falling. I think for the benefit of non-climbers the distinction between with a partner holding a rope and solo, with nobody holding a rope is probably the most helpful aspect. I've done both. I just genuinely don't know, I thought that El Cap had been climbed to death and didn't Honnold (yawn) free… More people know who Alex Honnold is than Ueli Steck. No, that was just a thing he said. "Lead soloing" as in starting at the base and climbing a sport route alone, then climbing while being somehow protected is, for all intents and purposes, impossible. ie, nobody has died on A5 due to the climb itself (blowing a placement and falling to your death). What do you do with free… Mar 24, 2025 · Great for rope solo free climbing, not necessary for aid soloing In my experience [eight solos of El Cap] the Grigri is best. He died on one of the easier In other words, free climbing would use ropes and bolts to stay safe in the case of a fall, but you can’t ascend the rope to skip a section of climbing, or stand on a bolt to rest. It's extremely calm and meditative. Any slippage at all will very quickly melt though the thing. Should I be trying more hard climbs rather than spending Free solo: Same as free climbing but with no ropes and no partner (i. I've been climbing trad for a few years now but have never really top roped, and never top roped solo. Free climbing is anything that isn't aid. aid climbing is pretty clear. Search rope solo and solo aid. It's just your body getting yourself up the rock. Both searches have been called out. This can be as simple as a strong rubber band or something you made purposely for this task. There are certainly more "pure" forms of free climbing style, but that doesn't necessarily negate a free climb ascent. 91K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Touchstone was my first aid wall. Thanks. The Silent Partner sounds like the best overall device for either aid or free but screw that $225 pricetag. My recommendations: -Pack like something will go wrong. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Rope sololing while aid climbing is an incredibly useful tool. He thought he knew where to stop but once he started climbing solo he got carried away and watend to do harder and harder climbs. Moving forward, I want to encourage you to develop a way to avoid missing or skipping any steps - especially when solo climbing. Functionally speaking, there's always a better shoe for any situation they'll wind up in. A fall at that point will generate a fall factor FAR beyond anything that one could create in a normal climbing situation. I use the Soloist, but I think they stopped manufacturing it. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour The concept of free climbing vs. After assessing my injuries: fractured ribs, transverse patella fracture, deep lacerations in the inner thigh, I still had to manually ascend the rope to get my phone to call for help. Learning to rope solo using clove hitches is an essential skill to learn if considering a big wall. The Cinch or other Grigri like devices are popular but tend to require to much fiddling to get the rope to feed for my taste. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. Mar 8, 2024 · Unlike most other aspects of rock climbing, you can rest pretty much whenever you want to on a big wall. Moonlight should be sacrificed, given to the free climbers. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. For aid climbing I use the continuous rope method (although this isn't a good descriptive name for it) and best damn rope bag ever made. If you are using it to move up the wall, that type of climbing is referred to as aid-climbing. A week later we climbed Kingfisher in the Fisher Towers. The protection can’t aid you in your progression up the wall. but it's also some of the most popular climbing in canada so i'd personally be more worried about finding a parking spot than finding a belay unless you're super keen on going it alone. Jan 15, 2025 · For free climbing I have the rope in a small bad on the back. His main point is that the grading of aid climbing is based on danger, but the danger doesn't actually exist. So if you have a grigri already I think you'd be wasting your money on the soloist or solo-aid. 6K votes, 474 comments. Use your Grigri, exactly as is, UN-modified. However most routes include a decent amount of free climbing to get between sections of aid. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. In the Alpine climbing circles, Ueli steck is certainly recognized by his achievements, I believe he has won two Piolet d'Or awards for his climbs. I bought some guide tennies recently, massive waste of money I've found, they're pretty rubbish in wet conditions/on grass. It also lets you avoid crowded and uncomfortable hanging belays. Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. qcvcxsxd rtqmyyf pclmzxsd wprcw qhdcbw cyejup sfhuu rdbrf tzgi ounbaan