Best climbers ape index reddit. Magnus is 173cm tall with a 176cm ape index.

Best climbers ape index reddit There’s also a slight bias between the sexes. which is obvious. Anyone who watches us climb together would agree that I have better technique as well as having an advantage on crimps because I have small hands. All of the best climbers I know are as well. For instance routes usually have been set up with an average height in mind. That one person reversed the correlation for women. I too struggle with commitment and dynamic movement. So I think all different body types lend themselves to climbing—actually it's funny, if I pick out the three best climbers of the guys I know, one is the tallest and the other two are the shortest. I think mine is probably minus 17. Monkeys have hands for feet and they do nothing but climb their entire lives. Route setters inside do a notoriously BAD job at setting for shorter folks, and even more so if you have really short arms. Magnus is 173cm tall with a 176cm ape index. Tall ppl don’t live in vans Only article I found mentioning height is on 8a. I would say your best bet is to go climbing outside. 5 lbs (1. Nov 2, 2023 · Pro Climbers & Their Ape Index. Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. learning mine really improved my confidence on reachy moves. 15d if Ape Index =O” system would read (I’m clearly joking). The R-squared value of 32. Which gym would you recommend? I visited Ape index and wasn't too impressed but I have not checked out AZ on the rocks. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Height: inches cm Wingspan: inches cm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. Quite a few great climbers (e. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. generally speaking the type of person who would develop a large positive index will be tall and lanky. Nice work, thanks. They created an environment that’s suitable for all skill levels and ages which broadens their customer base. 36 st:wt) with half crimp Not a climber girl here, but just saying, Lynn Hill, Puccio and Sasha do not have negative 7 ape index's. 90lbs puts her slightly underweight, 75 is extremely underweight. . The heavier you are, the harder climbing is going to be because your fingers can handle only so much. which requires him to be pretty close to The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). Most of the rest of the time, I love the lank. Feb 2, 2024 · Our Favorite for the Best Overall Climbing Gyms in Phoenix Ape Index Rock Climbing Overview: Simply put, the Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym is a premium facility that was recently remodeled entirely to give its customers a heavily new feel. 15-20lbs less is a very significant drop. The vast majority of world cup climbs are set in a way where both short & tall climbers can reach the top, so I feel like it simply doesn't come up a lot - with the exception of beta breaks, e. i recently found a climber on instagram who is quite small in stature with a -2 ape index. i've got a +3 ape index and i think it's a benefit. I've noticed that all of the really good climbers, male or female, aren't super tall for their gender (note: I'm in Australia so my perception of height may be different to elsewhere, generally I would call a 190cm+ man tall, and a 175ish+ woman tall). Or Pippen Hi fellow climbers, From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. Jul 14, 2023 · If you have a wingspan shorter than your height, you would say you have a minus x (again, x equals the number of inches difference) ape index. lean muscle, once honed by good technique will allow you to reach past tough sections. The Sloth Index. The man has an impressive ape index, but I swear his center of gravity is at his sternum. 5cm tall with a 157. 173cm is roughly 5’8. Jun 4, 2024 · So you can be a short person with a positive ape index, like Sasha Di Giulian, who’s 157. You might not become the best in the world, but this doesn't stop you from getting good at the sport. 5 cm tall and has an impressive +5 cm ape index. 9 if Ape index >0/5. Ape index is basically the same as reach. Specifically sustained and intense obsession. Just like: torso length, shin to upper leg length, arm length, neck length (seriously: momentum), calf diameter, foot length to lower leg length, toe/finger length to palm length, wingspan = height + ape index (ape index in inch format) Strength (kinda proportional to muscle profile) with this: muscle profile = A * height^2 (where A is some constant) and weight weight = B * height^3 (where B is another constant) If you chart them, you'll see that weight (cube) grows faster than strength (square). which requires him to be pretty close to Sure, a positive ape index definitely helps - no doubt about it But the importance of ape index is overstated in my personal opinion. He climbing style is incredible to watch. Given a jug, they can take a no-hands, no feet rest, as if they needed it, by using their tail. Ai Mori, Brooke Raboutou, Laura Rogora, Jain Kim, countless others are all short but compete (and win) at the highest level of climbing. He climbs like 10 boulders 8B and up or something like that, and makes them all look like piss. Climbing is more exciting for me now though as more moves feel less certain, I feel taller climbers miss out on some of the buzz of climbing as “harder for the tall”-type stuff just feels awkward and frustrating if it doesn’t suit you physically while “harder for the short” moves feel more uncertain for us shorties and rewarding in a Wondering if it matters for climbing beyond being interesting I guess Define "matters. gg/gcj Due to Reddit's decisions related to third party platforms and content management, this sub will only allow posts about Don Cheadle. They would probably have dexterous feet and a third hand. The average human ape index is probably 0 using the subtraction method or 1 using the ratio method. Speaking of pro climbers, statistically, most pro climbers male or female have a +2 ape index which is not that much. That guy has a freaking +4 ape index or something like that. If you don’t know your ape index yet, there are several methods, some more complex than others. prioritize outside climbing over inside climbing (gyms are biased re: size. Imagine how contrived a “5. Even in sport climbing, Ramon Julian Puigblanqué is 159 and one of the best sport climber ever (51 9a/9a+ routes). Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. Honestly if you go to competitions you’ll realise pretty much every climber is shorter than you realised. The average climbing community probably averages much more on the plus side. Humans are better climbers, though. But like any other sport, you need to practice and do supplementary exercises to excel. I have seen a couple articles before that listed the ape index of professional climbers, but they're all pretty small sample sizes so I'm hesitant to make any conclusions. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. " Sure, it matters. Lynn Hill, Alex Megos) don't have a positive ape index. This measurement is similar to the ape index, but excludes the torso. Crypto I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Also, in my climber friend group, one of the best climbers by far is the shortest guy. The woman with the negative Ape Index? It looks more like a positive Torso Factor (TM). Can I say as a relatively new tall climber, I feel as though shorter climbers generally get a better experience while bouldering. her handle is @shortgirlkilter and she mostly does really hard kilter sends! super cool to see and very inspiring for other short climbers around. Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. However, since I’m not a comp climber, short arms are not gonna affect me as much. We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are conducting an extensive study (over a large subset of competition climbers) to identify which factors specifically contribute to enhanced climbing performance in competitive climbing (lead, bouldering, speed). Business, Economics, and Finance. I have taken a fresh look at this relationship. I've improved in this respect, but has been a slow process. Their ape index is like +30. As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a tight and uncomfortable heel hook. Her torso is just long compared to her legs and arms, giving her more reach than a person with a neutral Torso Factor (TM). Why is the ape index talked about so much in the rock-climbing community? From a simple and logical standpoint, rock climbing is about advancing to the top of the route or problem. For example, with a negative ape index you may feel like your disadvantaged by reach, but you actually have leverage advantages for things like lock offs. It's the people that have the best weight to power ratio who will really thrive at climbing. Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. -5 on an actual short person would be crazy Edit: actually maybe I’m short. Ape Index is a completely accidental number; You could focus on anything else, really. Come visit us on Discord! discord. They do need extra inch on arms to secure a podium. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. I’m 5’4” with a -2 ape index while he is 5’7” with a +4 ape index. From a casual glance at the data-points it seems that a logarithmic function might fit better, as between 20% and 35% there seems to be quite a big jump, then above 40% there is hardly any difference. Lynn Hill, one of the best climbers in the world at the time, is 157. Height - 71 inches Arm Span - 76 inches Ape Index 1 = 1. But yeah, it's definitely an aspect that plays a role. I just thought about it and get called a hobbit relatively often. I actually have roughly a +3 ape index, which may sound great, but there’s advantages and disadvantages to all of our body types. It’s not like grades take it into account. Totally agree!! My climbing partner is my husband, and he is 6’3” and not a wire-y build. I have -3 and a bit inch ape index and am only slightly short and feel like a huge outlier. Look at Lynn hill (your height) doing the nose FA cause the roof suit her very well, also Brooke is your height and climb harder than anyone here probably. It's a no nonsense, with little story/dialogue, and all climbs are shown with a single continuous shot. Any input would be greatly appreciated! I think the most ideal body for comp climbing is being relatively short ~5’8 but with a massive wingspan like Tomoa. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. although we all faced that moment when an extra 2 cm would have made the difference between life and death, right? Here’s an Ape Index Chart of some of the best climbers out there: See full list on climbinghouse. Most people just don't understand the physics of climbing. I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. At first glance, it seems that being taller is a handicap in rock climbing see here for a reddit discussion or my own analysis here. From what I can tell, Ondra isn't obsessed with training or being stronger, he's obsessed with rock climbing. Everyone has to hold themselves up w/ their feet and fingers. She has been reporting 90-95lbs for a couple years now. I climb 3-4 times a week during school and looking for a new gym to call home in the phoenix area. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. 5 percent stronger. com Jul 9, 2021 · The Average Ape Index Compared to Famous Climbers Average Ape Index. 07 Ape Index 2 = 5 inches Those sit down starts can be pretty grim, though I find my long legs more of a problem than long arms. Granted, they are all at least 5' but if Brooke can send V14 with a 1" ape index, the ceiling for you is still very very high. Really you see it in all of the most elite performers across a wide range of disciplines. The best female lead climbers are around 163 cm tall and the best boulderers around 164 cm tall. Posted by u/MadScientist1972 - 68 votes and 5 comments Maybe if we carefully choose only the best climbers for breeding purposes we will end up with a line of champions whose pheonotypes are artificially selected for traits adapted to climbing. 11”. nu saying he is now 183, I can guarantee that he is nowhere near that height, the same way that Paul Jenft is nowhere near 198 no matter what his IFSC profile says (I’ve always found this one pretty funny) I'm in the process of moving to phoenix. g. 10a if Ape Index<0/5. 8% percent suggests that the linear trendline is very unrepresentative of the data. A positive index is seen as advantageous for climbers. this body type will build lean muscle as opposed to bulking up. Yay Torso Factor! The real numbers are harder I’m 6’1” with an even ape index and 185 lbs To prepare for outdoor season here, I’ve been training a bit in the gym and have these current stats: Max hang 10s 20mm + 67. The fact that taller people also weight more (in absolute terms) seems to cause this negative correlation between height and weight. ) I am on the small side (5'3", -3" ape), climb 5. 13+ (starting to boulder this year), and have always performed better outside than inside. I consider that dividing your wingspan by your height is the best methold. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. Unfortunately, as far as I know, the IFSC doesn't keep wingspan data of all the climbers and I haven't looked to see if it's available elsewhere yet. Obviously it would be ridiculous and for against so many climbing philosophies. eg. I understand where you’re coming from. How to calculate ape index. Don't think than it is what is limiting you grade wise. Ai using her short size to keep her body closer to the wall than taller climbers in boxy situations or Adam Ondra using his tall size to skip something. Posted by u/Vpk-75 - 43 votes and 3 comments. 5cm wingspan. Not overweight at all, but his body simply is not slender, even when he was seriously into cycling before he started climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's an hour of him basically crushing everything. That said one could be pickier and ask for ape index, time spent climbing, expertise in bouldering, sport, speed and more. Ape Index and Climbing. Why? Because we made up the rules of climbing. Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and… May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements; Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. This movie is perhaps my favorite climbing movie. im 4'10, with a 5'2 wingspan (aka a +4 ape index), so those extra couple inches really matter! now im more likely to try that dyno, bc i may be way shorter than avg but my arms arent actually much shorter than my partners are! no more excuse 😅 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). egqfv qtox yemv qrxq hvqsq nwkaw tuhbgoxra zwsrj gisuml aut