Alpine climbing harness definition reddit He thinks it is fine to use, however I have a few concerns: the leg loop buckles are plastic, like what you find on straps for packs, it only has two gear loops, which makes it very difficult for him to carry gear when we're doing multi-pitches. Thanks! New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. I’m taking something similar on my next mountaineering trip. I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. Im personally a fan on the camp energy harness, its pretty comfy, cheap, lightweight, and has a lot of adjustment points. You need some crampons and an ice axe, and a cheap harness, and a cheap short rope, and a few other bits and bobs. That includes alpine bouldering and high-elevation sport climbing, as well as the remote, wind-blasted peaks you’re probably referring to when you mention the intimidation factor. I've made it this far into the game by trying cheap gloves to look for those secret pieces of gear that are awesome but super cheap. Most of these harnesses will also tack on adjustable leg loops and ice clipper slots, which provide versatility for ice and mixed routes but are not Mountaineering could refer to any form of mountain climbing, but usually refers to climbing non technical peaks, either in expedition style or with a big team or without technical climbing. 10 outdoors and have climbed trad up to 5. Not sure why this was downvoted - sport climbing and alpine climbing/solo-ing are not the same and just because you're a strong sport climber doesn't mean you can or should solo 5. But it's time to invest some real money. Alpine climbing harnesses are designed to excel in cold and challenging environments. 5 . As the title states, one of my climbing partners uses a lightweight alpine harness as an all-around harness. Toprope and lead climbing: more often used in sports climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Almost as light as alpine harnesses, very comfortable and enough gear loop space for even trad multipitch (and ice ax loops for ice climbing too!) Reply reply CongregationOfVapors It's the only harness I own and it's a good "do it all" option IMO. That's primarily onsighting, not redpointing. Looking for a lightweight, packable harness for all things ski mountaineering: glacier travel, moderate ice climbing, rappelling. I have never owned a climbing harness that was uncomfortable to walk in. 7 or so. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Additionally I've done climbs (sans climbing pack) with the capture plate on my harness and a tether going from my camera back to my harness as back-up and that worked pretty well too. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Sport climbing harnesses typically have fewer gear loops, as less equipment is needed for this type of climbing. Rainier, and Middle Sister are all "alpine" routes, but require very different skills and gear. One thing I have noticed is that the notion of 'scrambling' is pretty absent in continental Europe. The other reason I love alpine harnesses is that they take up very little space in my pack and they weigh very little. g. They're great, comfortable, affordable harnesses that are well suited for anything from indoor top-rope climbing to high-level outdoor sport or alpine trad multipitch. This activity, which is hiking that involves the use of one's hands to advance, is one stepping-stone between hiking and alpinism/mountaineering (another thing lacking in Europe is the distinction between alpinism and mountaineering!) Admins, please delete if not allowed. My thought for a DIY system was my climbing harness with a length of climbing rope figure 8'd to my tie in loops with two ends connected to locking carabiners. Alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies I used alpine draws almost exclusively as even with double ropes it could be hard to extend or make tricky placements work. When I did Mont Blanc the freezing point was around 4000m and even the summit was only -5. Climbing harness or alpinism Hey, so 10 years ago I used to do some rockclimbing, I dont own any equipment now, and Im doing mountaneering in the pyrinees now as my main activity, and got to that spot where I need a rope to do more routes, Im taking an alpine climbing and security course at the beginning of january and the one thing Im Dec 18, 2019 · The Petzl Altitude harness is an example of a simple, reliable alpine-focused harness. Alpine climbing can also mean ice A better breakdown would be: Snow climbing Ice climbing Rock climbing Mixed climbing (two or more of the above three on the same route) The term ‘alpine-style’ was introduced in contrast to ‘expedition-style’ to describe fast ascents of mountains without relying heavily on fixed ropes or seige tactics, and generally not using oxygen. One person stays below and slowly gives out rope as the other climbs up. My experience has been that it's very comfortable for all applications -- I use it for everything from sport climbing to alpine climbing, even when I need to carry a double rack and draws (it definitely sags a little bit!)-- it's obviously not as comfortable as a much bigger harness with more padding, but I've never found it to be uncomfortable . The key difference is that alpine harnesses typically include features geared toward glacier travel and ice If you ask some people, they may tell you that mountaineering and alpinism are the same thing. If he falls, the person below uses a belay device to hold the rope in place, and the climber only falls until the last anchor. 75 1 2 Small-medium nuts Double ropes 2 10cm screws 2 13cm screws 2 pickets 2 double length slings 6 alpine draws Ropeman and prussic loop on It’s a harness for alpine climbing. I've found a few like the Temres gloves that are great for climbing ice or the 4 pack of leather work gloves from Costco that I sno-seal and keep love for ski touring. It does the gym, sport, trad, ice, and alpine stuff very well. Jul 1, 2024 · An alpine climbing harness will have a lot of the same features as a trad climbing harness, including durable fabrics, large gear loops and a haul loop, and a supportive build for hanging belays. There's the old-school definition, innovated by guys like Messner That's probably because in many European languages there is only one word for alpinism/mountaineering. Sep 19, 2022 · What is alpine climbing anyway? Alpine climbing is technically defined as climbing anywhere in the alpine zone, or above treeline. Harness with via ferrata, rope, or nylon sling/lanyard is You literally cannot beat the Arc'Teryx big wall harness. The gear section of Blake Herrington's Cascades Rock suggests several QDs are part of a standard rack for multipitch alpine trad climbing. I end up using it in the summer for alpine climbing missions and any other time that I need a 55 L bag. May 1, 2025 · In an effort to find the best available, we put a range of climbing harnesses—from fast-and-light alpine options to feature-heavy big wall offerings—to the test this year, taking them on trips from the cold Canadian alpine to the steep walls of Devil’s Tower to overhung sport routes at The Red. 4 . I bought some random harness that was part of a package deal that my first shoes came with five years ago. The 'alpine' style was simply a way of climbing like you're in the Alps (ie. 4 alpine routes. What I mean by this is, these harnesses are great and you probably won't feel compelled to get another harness until they need replacement, no matter how much you advance or what I've been climbing top rope for a few years now and I've burnt out all my local spots so I decided it's time to start sport and trad climbing. Hi, Would the following harness be ideal for via ferrata or do I need something more substantial? I’m aware it’s a lightweight alpine harness but I don’t actually plan to use it for any actual climbing, only via ferratas. But I wouldn’t wear it for roped rock climbing. With the right harness, you’ll be able to focus on the climb 3 days ago · An alpine climbing harness offers most of the same features as a trad climbing harness. I have lots of exposed hiking and roped-climbing experience in the Rockies and feel very comfortable in vertical terrain. I've borrowed other people's harnesses a bit and they all seem more or less the same to me. See full list on theadventurejunkies. Go to areas off trail and learn how to move through scree and talus with that awkward heavy pack. Rock climbing harnesses weigh more because they have more features – padding around the waist and legs loop and large, numerous gear loops. I have bought SO MANY harnesses in pursuit of this exact issue and also correct fit. Apr 29, 2025 · Best for Alpine Climbing: Arc’teryx Vertex Alpine ($220) Best Value: Astral Loyak ($99) Best for Cragging: Arc’teryx Kragg ($160) Most Durable: La Sportiva TX4 Evo ($169) Best Scrambler: Scarpa Gecko LT ($169) How to choose; How we test; Meet our testers; Don’t miss: The Best Climbing Shoes of 2025 I realize a Via Ferrata lanyard is the best choice, but would prefer not to purchase one only for this one trip if there is a safe alternative that I can fashion from existing gear. Bennett says, “At a certain point, the ethics of free climbing go out the window so you can get to the top before conditions turn or the sun goes down. ” Think about your follower Modern harnesses are now also optimized with different feature sets depending on the use such as sport climbing, trad climbing, ice climbing, alpine climbing, big wall climbing, or mountaineering. Added bonus (if you prefer to lead with a gear sling): you don’t have to compromise on your gear sling’s length and style, significant if you’re of different statures. My hands down favorite has been the DMM Puma - I love love love harnesses with a floating waist belt so you can center it no matter what layers you are wearing; it has substantial gear loops oriented toward the front, a full size fifth loop even in XS; ice clipper slots, and strikes a comfortable padding You need some boots and some gear to keep you warm and dry, which is no more expensive than some backpacking gear. Hey everyone, I interviewed Raphael Slawinski and thought you would enjoy the chat. Gear loops aren’t included on all climbing harnesses but are a must-have for any outdoor lead harness. New to climbing with a harness Climbing gear Helmet Deuter guide lite 32+ pack Ice tools Ice tool leashes Harness with ice clippers G14 Crampons - mono front point Cordalette with 3 lockers Belay biner + ATCGuide BD C4 cams . Raphael won a Piolet D'or for his 2013 FA of the northwest face of K6 West with Ian Welsted, and he was also a leading Canadian mixed climber ("sport wanker" as he called himself), helping to popularize bolted mixed climbing and sending some of the first M10s and M11s. 3 Alpine climbing harness. harness, rope, carabiners, atc, and a couple slings I'm just trying to figure out what gear is an absolute must have. trad mixed climbing I will agree with the small/far back gear loops. I did not harness up, but I did wear approach shoes (hiking shoes but with climbing rubber) for this one and was glad to have them. S. If it's properly fitted, it should feel fine for all-day wear, in any position. Alpine has additional challenges and dangers which is why I think Alex said that. If I layer on puffy pants or hard shells, they ride below the gear loops. Without breaking the bank. Alpinism as a term is reserved only for highly technical climbing, in a single push, with a minimum of team members and equipment (in Alpine Style). You can use a rock climbing harness for mountaineering but you can't use a mountaineering for sport. 3 days ago · An alpine climbing harness offers most of the same features as a trad climbing harness. Terrain dictates a lot. P. One thing nobody really told me about summer alpine climbing is just how hot it can get. Personally I like that because it gives it a little bit more crossover access and justifies the cost for me. But most of Marc’s climbing was insane alpine stuff. One of my few must-have features on a climbing pack is having both a webbing and padded belt that I can switch between. com Oct 7, 2023 · These harnesses are often lightweight and offer increased mobility to maximize the climber’s performance. Alpine draws depend a lot on where you climb like all trad gear. "But I'm not doing big walls!" you might say. It’ll work but other harnesses are much more comfortable. If you’re never going to weight the harness or hang at a belay, by all means, buy a skimpy little thing that will absolutely cut off circulation or dig into your skin. I have the bare bones climbing gear. Packability. My instinct is that the harness absolutely doesn't matter, any harness will be fine for most users, which is why "basic and cheap" is the There's no particular grade cut off at which you can start alpine climbing. It definitely felt funny with the added weight on the harness and a little uncomfortable with the plate, but I didn't think too much of it while climbing. All told, it's no more expensive than a used bicycle or motorcycle or golf clubs or other common hobby equipment. Alpine climbing doesn't have a very good definition. Generally if you go to a climbing store you can have the staff tie you in so you can feel how comfortable the harnesses are you actually put weight on the straps Here is American Alpine Institute's gear list for Alpinism I in the Cascades (a 12 day intro course, mix of front country and back country; mix of rock climbing and I also have a standard sport/rock climbing harness. e. Don’t be afraid to pull on gear or jug through a challenging section. But it does fall short on the extreme end of things, e. fast and light either using the huts or bivouacing around). For example, The Grand Teton, Mt. TLDR: they are/were each the best of the best at their preferred type of climbing. Just goes to show that sport climbing and alpine climbing are wildly different beasts. In addition to a robust feature set, harnesses are now engineered to high standards. The key difference is that alpine harnesses typically include features geared toward glacier travel and ice Personally, I just put my harness on over my soft shells at the start of my day. 6/5. Actually it's a FANTASTIC free climbing harness that also happens to be comfortable enough for big wall climbing and holds enough gear for even the most epic multipitch adventures (read: you can climb el cap with this thing). The straight up climbing solos on rock that Alex does are more technical than what Marc did. I went through the guides and she was a little confused when checking my harness but she also understood the financial burden of gear. If you want to start alpine climbing join a local Alpine club. (So I've been told, I'm new to this). The climber lays down anchors while climbing and attaches the rope. May 21, 2023 · An alpine harness is the better choice if you’re looking for a lightweight, packable harness for mountaineering or alpine climbing. As for weight Ultralight alpine gear is generally not a great choice for regular cragging/gym usage -- not because it's uncomfortable, but because UL stuff may not handle the wear & tear as Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. Generally if you go to a climbing store you can have the staff tie you in so you can feel how comfortable the harnesses are you actually put weight on the straps I also have a standard sport/rock climbing harness. Meanwhile workout for movement on your feet. , ice axe, crampons, harness, climbing stuff) Petzl is phenomenal and I'm never unsatisfied. Crack climbing in Squamish you barely need draws if your cams extend. In fact, lots of people use the two interchangeably, and for good reason; both describe the act of climbing technically difficult mountains using a variety of skills like ice climbing, rock climbing, and glacier travel. Jul 5, 2023 · A gear loop is a small, non-load-bearing loop used to carry climbing gear such as carabiners, quickdraws, cams, nuts, cordelette, and slings. Obviously it depends on your definition of alpine climbing, but for me that just means trad (or mixed) climbing in the mountains. Edit to add: don’t use prusiks. and metal work can go through the belay loop. MSR or mountain hardwear for tents and camp-related stuff. Running is good, hiking with a heavy pack is good. It’s an alpine climbing harness, with all the features meant for alpine climbing. For ice and alpine harnesses, ice clipper slots are also helpful. 4. 8ish, and in the mountains up to 5. If this doesn't scare you off you can begin. For non-attire gear you wear/use (e. Lots of oreos. I choose between racking on my harness with only a 1in webbing hip belt that stays out of the way (small pack/light load) or using a low profile harness and racking on the pack's padded hip belt (heavier loads). From what I’ve read, it seems like there isn’t an obvious choice; some people praise the Petzl Altitude, some hate it. Oct 7, 2023 · These harnesses are often lightweight and offer increased mobility to maximize the climber’s performance. Then at the anchor, you need only deal with getting the remaining gear from the leader before setting off. Scrambling is how I got into mountaineering because on the one hand it pushes you to improve your technical climbing ability (because climbing unroped is easier when you are good at climbing with a rope!) as well as moving higher onto glaciers and snow slopes, where some of the rope-work and equipment from rock climbing also come in handy. Jul 4, 2022 · In the alpine, time is key, and hangdogging often isn’t an option. I lead low 5. Headwall I own and love, but it's not quite as ski specific. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. A harness without leg loops is fine for low angle alpine 'sliding' falls down a glacier for example but completely unacceptable for a vertical fall. Mountaineering harnesses cut those things back, which saves on weight, but also saves on packability. It can be anywhere from via ferrata at high elevation, to long trad routes, to ice climbing, to moderate hiking on glaciers, to steep skiing. Although, having them far back is nice for keeping stuff out of the way of my legs. Gym climbing builds strength to climb indoors. Whoops, guess you're wrong AGAIN. No matter which harness you choose, make sure it fits properly, is comfortable to wear, and meets the safety standards of your climbing environment. I just leave the fly open and tie into the harness through there. Harnesses are certified to the UIAA-105 or EN-12277 standards Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 7 comments May 20, 2022 · When you’re following, carefully re-rack the pro as you clean. For morale-related comfort food: oreos. eheyr mkbb dydbtu vappyy coqjh bwqjyx zhqnmqlsx byzw nxnqs msl